Guidebook for Rio de Janeiro
Food Scene
Famous bar, brazilian food, caipirinha, snacks
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Bagatelle Lanchonete e Restaurante
Rua Djalma UlrichFamous bar, brazilian food, caipirinha, snacks
Restaurante Vinícius e Bossa Nova Bar
39 Rua Vinícius de MoraesBrazilian music, caipirinha
Barzin Rio Live
27 R. Saint RomanBar & Restaurant
It Is Closed
34 Rua Farme de AmoedoAsian food
Leblon's top sushi destination boasts a Zen-like ambience, with a handsome dark-wood sushi counter setting the stage for succulent cuisine. In addition to sashimi and sushi, you'll find grilled namorado (a type of perch) with passion fruit farofa, sea-urchin ceviche and refreshing sake to complement the meal.
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Sushi Leblon
256 Rua Dias FerreiraLeblon's top sushi destination boasts a Zen-like ambience, with a handsome dark-wood sushi counter setting the stage for succulent cuisine. In addition to sashimi and sushi, you'll find grilled namorado (a type of perch) with passion fruit farofa, sea-urchin ceviche and refreshing sake to complement the meal.
Espírito Santa is set in a beautifully restored mansion in Santa Teresa. Take a seat on the back terrace with its sweeping views or inside the charming, airy dining room, and feast on rich, expertly prepared meat and seafood dishes from the Amazon and the northeast.
Top picks include the moqueca, made with a delicious river fish (pintado), and the slow-roasted pork ribs served with sweet potato. Don't miss the creative cocktails, some of which feature juices from Amazonian fruits.
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Espírito Santa
264 R. Alm. AlexandrinoEspírito Santa is set in a beautifully restored mansion in Santa Teresa. Take a seat on the back terrace with its sweeping views or inside the charming, airy dining room, and feast on rich, expertly prepared meat and seafood dishes from the Amazon and the northeast.
Top picks include the moqueca, made with a delicious river fish (pintado), and the slow-roasted pork ribs served with sweet potato. Don't miss the creative cocktails, some of which feature juices from Amazonian fruits.
Hidden on a windy road high up in Santa Teresa, Aprazível offers beautiful views and a lush garden setting. Grilled fish and roasted dishes showcase the country's culinary highlights of land and sea. Standouts include orange-infused grilled fish with coconut rice, cashews and roasted plantains.
This place is a bit out of the way, so call ahead (sometimes the restaurant is booked up by groups). Take a taxi and have your map handy, as drivers don't always know the spot.
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Aprazível
62 R. AprazívelHidden on a windy road high up in Santa Teresa, Aprazível offers beautiful views and a lush garden setting. Grilled fish and roasted dishes showcase the country's culinary highlights of land and sea. Standouts include orange-infused grilled fish with coconut rice, cashews and roasted plantains.
This place is a bit out of the way, so call ahead (sometimes the restaurant is booked up by groups). Take a taxi and have your map handy, as drivers don't always know the spot.
Claude Troisgros, one of Rio's top chefs, and his son Thomas dazzle guests with unforgettable meals at this award-winning restaurant set in a peaceful villa on a quiet, tree-lined street. Originally from France, Troisgros mixes the Old World with the New in dishes such as duck with passion fruit, endive and foie gras or shrimp risotto with white-truffle oil and mushroom foam.
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Olympe
62 R. Custódio SerrãoClaude Troisgros, one of Rio's top chefs, and his son Thomas dazzle guests with unforgettable meals at this award-winning restaurant set in a peaceful villa on a quiet, tree-lined street. Originally from France, Troisgros mixes the Old World with the New in dishes such as duck with passion fruit, endive and foie gras or shrimp risotto with white-truffle oil and mushroom foam.
One of Rio's best restaurants, Zuka prepares delectable, mouthwatering cuisine. Try zingy ceviche or the confection-like delicacy of Zuka's original foie gras to start, and follow with tender octopus over a roast potato crisp, honey-glazed duck breast with Moroccan couscous, grilled fish of the day with truffle sauce or many other outstanding dishes.
All the grilling action happens at the open kitchen; you can sit at the counter and watch the chefs in action. The cocktails, particularly the lychee saketinis, and desserts are also excellent.
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Zuka
233B Rua Dias FerreiraOne of Rio's best restaurants, Zuka prepares delectable, mouthwatering cuisine. Try zingy ceviche or the confection-like delicacy of Zuka's original foie gras to start, and follow with tender octopus over a roast potato crisp, honey-glazed duck breast with Moroccan couscous, grilled fish of the day with truffle sauce or many other outstanding dishes.
All the grilling action happens at the open kitchen; you can sit at the counter and watch the chefs in action. The cocktails, particularly the lychee saketinis, and desserts are also excellent.
The exposed brick and old hardwood ceiling set the stage for feasting on the frutas do mar (seafood). Lines gather on weekends for crabmeat appetizers, fresh grilled fish and flavorful platters of moqueca . During the week, stop by for tasty lunchtime specials. There's live music Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday nights.
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Restaurante Sobrenatural
432 R. Alm. AlexandrinoThe exposed brick and old hardwood ceiling set the stage for feasting on the frutas do mar (seafood). Lines gather on weekends for crabmeat appetizers, fresh grilled fish and flavorful platters of moqueca . During the week, stop by for tasty lunchtime specials. There's live music Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday nights.
Sightseeing
"Seen from the peak of Pão de Açúcar, Rio is undoubtedly a Cidade Maravilhosa (Marvelous City). There are many good times to make the ascent, but sunset on a clear day is the most rewarding. Two cable cars connect to the summit, 396m above Rio. At the top, the city unfolds beneath you, with Corcovado mountain and Cristo Redentor (Christ the Redeemer) off to the west, and Copacabana Beach to the south.
A visit to Pão de Açúcar is a must, but be prepared for heavy crowds. If possible, go first thing in the morning – and avoid going on cloudy days.
The first cable car ascends 220m to Morro da Urca. From here, you can see Baía de Guanabara (Guanabara Bay) and the winding coastline; on the ocean side of the mountain is Praia Vermelha. Morro da Urca has souvenir shops, snack bars (including an excellent fresh fruit and juice vendor) a high-end restaurant and a helipad (helicopter tours are possible).
The second cable car goes up to Pão de Açúcar. At the top, the city unfolds beneath you, with Corcovado mountain and Cristo Redentor off to the west, and Copacabana Beach to the south. If the breathtaking heights unsteady you, a drink stand serves caipirinhas and other drinks.
The two-stage cable cars depart every 20 minutes.
Those who’d rather take the long way to the top should sign up with one of the granite-hugging climbing tours offered by various outfits in Rio. Morro da Urca is much easier to climb, and you can do it on your own. The short but steep path takes about 30 minutes to climb. You’ll find the unmarked trail along the Pista Cláudio Coutinho."
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Sugarloaf-fjellet
"Seen from the peak of Pão de Açúcar, Rio is undoubtedly a Cidade Maravilhosa (Marvelous City). There are many good times to make the ascent, but sunset on a clear day is the most rewarding. Two cable cars connect to the summit, 396m above Rio. At the top, the city unfolds beneath you, with Corcovado mountain and Cristo Redentor (Christ the Redeemer) off to the west, and Copacabana Beach to the south.
A visit to Pão de Açúcar is a must, but be prepared for heavy crowds. If possible, go first thing in the morning – and avoid going on cloudy days.
The first cable car ascends 220m to Morro da Urca. From here, you can see Baía de Guanabara (Guanabara Bay) and the winding coastline; on the ocean side of the mountain is Praia Vermelha. Morro da Urca has souvenir shops, snack bars (including an excellent fresh fruit and juice vendor) a high-end restaurant and a helipad (helicopter tours are possible).
The second cable car goes up to Pão de Açúcar. At the top, the city unfolds beneath you, with Corcovado mountain and Cristo Redentor off to the west, and Copacabana Beach to the south. If the breathtaking heights unsteady you, a drink stand serves caipirinhas and other drinks.
The two-stage cable cars depart every 20 minutes.
Those who’d rather take the long way to the top should sign up with one of the granite-hugging climbing tours offered by various outfits in Rio. Morro da Urca is much easier to climb, and you can do it on your own. The short but steep path takes about 30 minutes to climb. You’ll find the unmarked trail along the Pista Cláudio Coutinho."
The monument is the best-known Brazilian image, famous all over the world
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Kristusstatuen
The monument is the best-known Brazilian image, famous all over the world
"One of Rio's best loved attractions, the steps leading up from Rua Joaquim Silva became a work of art when Chilean-born artist Jorge Selarón decided to cover the steps with colorful mosaics. A dedication to the Brazilian people, the 215 steps are a vivid riot of color."
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Selaron-trappen
Rua Manuel Carneiro"One of Rio's best loved attractions, the steps leading up from Rua Joaquim Silva became a work of art when Chilean-born artist Jorge Selarón decided to cover the steps with colorful mosaics. A dedication to the Brazilian people, the 215 steps are a vivid riot of color."
Parks & Nature
This park contains the ruins – exterior brick walls and a newly built staircase – of the mansion belonging to Brazilian heiress Laurinda Santos Lobo. Her house was a meeting point for Rio's artists and intellectuals for many years until her death in 1946. There's a small gallery on the ground floor, but the real reason to come here is for the excellent panorama from the viewing platform up top.
There's also a small outdoor cafe-kiosk and terrace where open-air concerts are sometimes held.
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Parque das Ruínas
169 R. Murtinho NobreThis park contains the ruins – exterior brick walls and a newly built staircase – of the mansion belonging to Brazilian heiress Laurinda Santos Lobo. Her house was a meeting point for Rio's artists and intellectuals for many years until her death in 1946. There's a small gallery on the ground floor, but the real reason to come here is for the excellent panorama from the viewing platform up top.
There's also a small outdoor cafe-kiosk and terrace where open-air concerts are sometimes held.
"On the outer reaches of Gávea, this lush park of native Mata Atlantica rain forest and replanted secondary forest provides a refreshing escape from the heavy traffic on nearby Rua Marques de São Vicente. Local residents come to jog here, to go for long walks with their dogs and to let their kids run about at the large playground.
A hiking trail connects the park with Solar da Imperatriz, an 18th-century colonial building that is today part of a school for horticultural studies, near Jardim Botânico; it's best to go with a local who knows the way, as the path isn't well marked, and the danger of assault is an unlikely but serious consideration. The trail starts near the small waterfall. The park also has a small chapel, and a 19th-century colonial mansion and museum that remain closed for renovations."
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Byens naturpark
505 Est. Santa Marinha"On the outer reaches of Gávea, this lush park of native Mata Atlantica rain forest and replanted secondary forest provides a refreshing escape from the heavy traffic on nearby Rua Marques de São Vicente. Local residents come to jog here, to go for long walks with their dogs and to let their kids run about at the large playground.
A hiking trail connects the park with Solar da Imperatriz, an 18th-century colonial building that is today part of a school for horticultural studies, near Jardim Botânico; it's best to go with a local who knows the way, as the path isn't well marked, and the danger of assault is an unlikely but serious consideration. The trail starts near the small waterfall. The park also has a small chapel, and a 19th-century colonial mansion and museum that remain closed for renovations."
"This exotic 137-hectare garden, with more than 8000 plant species, was designed by order of the Prince Regent Dom João (later to become Dom João VI) in 1808. The garden is quiet and serene on weekdays and blossoms with families on weekends. Highlights of a visit here include the row of palms (planted when the garden first opened), the Amazonas section, the lake containing the huge Vitória Régia water lilies and the enclosed orquidário , home to 600 species of orchids.
There's an outdoor snack bar on the grounds (near a kid's playground) and an appealing cafe just outside the main entrance. The new visitor center shows films (in English and Portuguese) that give the history of the gardens, and has a gift shop that sells unique crafts and souvenirs, such as shirts made of bamboo and bowls with pre-Columbian designs made from banana fibers."
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Jardim Botânico
"This exotic 137-hectare garden, with more than 8000 plant species, was designed by order of the Prince Regent Dom João (later to become Dom João VI) in 1808. The garden is quiet and serene on weekdays and blossoms with families on weekends. Highlights of a visit here include the row of palms (planted when the garden first opened), the Amazonas section, the lake containing the huge Vitória Régia water lilies and the enclosed orquidário , home to 600 species of orchids.
There's an outdoor snack bar on the grounds (near a kid's playground) and an appealing cafe just outside the main entrance. The new visitor center shows films (in English and Portuguese) that give the history of the gardens, and has a gift shop that sells unique crafts and souvenirs, such as shirts made of bamboo and bowls with pre-Columbian designs made from banana fibers."
"Ilha de Paquetá, in the Baía de Guanabara, was once a popular tourist spot and remains a pleasant escape from the city’s bustle. There are no cars on the island. Transport is by foot, bicycle (there are hundreds for rent) or horse-drawn carts. There’s a certain decadent charm to the colonial buildings, unassuming beaches and businesses catering to working-class visitors. The place gets crowded on weekends.
Go to Paquetá for the boat ride through Rio's famous bay and to see cariocas at play – especially during the Festa de São Roque, which is celebrated with fireworks, a procession and music on the weekend following August 16.
Boats leave from near Praça XV (Quinze) de Novembro in Centro. The ferry takes 70 minutes and costs R$10 for a return trip. There are 12 departures daily, roughly every 90 minutes from about 7am."
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Paquetá Island
"Ilha de Paquetá, in the Baía de Guanabara, was once a popular tourist spot and remains a pleasant escape from the city’s bustle. There are no cars on the island. Transport is by foot, bicycle (there are hundreds for rent) or horse-drawn carts. There’s a certain decadent charm to the colonial buildings, unassuming beaches and businesses catering to working-class visitors. The place gets crowded on weekends.
Go to Paquetá for the boat ride through Rio's famous bay and to see cariocas at play – especially during the Festa de São Roque, which is celebrated with fireworks, a procession and music on the weekend following August 16.
Boats leave from near Praça XV (Quinze) de Novembro in Centro. The ferry takes 70 minutes and costs R$10 for a return trip. There are 12 departures daily, roughly every 90 minutes from about 7am."
"One long stretch of sun-drenched sand, Ipanema Beach is demarcated by postos (posts), which mark off subcultures as diverse as the city itself. Posto 9, right off Rua Vinícius de Moraes, is where Rio’s most lithe and tanned bodies migrate. The area is also known as Cemetério dos Elefantes because of the handful of old leftists, hippies and artists who sometimes hang out there. In front of Rua Farme de Amoedo is Praia Farme, the stomping ground for gay society.
Posto 8 further east is mostly the domain of favela kids. Arpoador, between Ipanema and Copacabana, is Rio’s most popular surf spot.
Leblon attracts a broad mix of single cariocas , as well as families from the neighborhood. Posto 10 is for sports lovers, where there are ongoing games of volleyball, soccer and frescobol (beach tennis played with wooden rackets and a rubber ball).
Whatever spot you choose, you'll enjoy cleaner sands and sea than those in Copacabana. Keep in mind that if you go on a Saturday or Sunday, the sands get crowded. Go early to stake out a spot.
The word ipanema is an indigenous word for ‘bad, dangerous waters’, which is not far off given the strong undertow and often oversized waves that crash onto the shore. Be careful, and swim only where locals do."
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Ipanema-stranden
"One long stretch of sun-drenched sand, Ipanema Beach is demarcated by postos (posts), which mark off subcultures as diverse as the city itself. Posto 9, right off Rua Vinícius de Moraes, is where Rio’s most lithe and tanned bodies migrate. The area is also known as Cemetério dos Elefantes because of the handful of old leftists, hippies and artists who sometimes hang out there. In front of Rua Farme de Amoedo is Praia Farme, the stomping ground for gay society.
Posto 8 further east is mostly the domain of favela kids. Arpoador, between Ipanema and Copacabana, is Rio’s most popular surf spot.
Leblon attracts a broad mix of single cariocas , as well as families from the neighborhood. Posto 10 is for sports lovers, where there are ongoing games of volleyball, soccer and frescobol (beach tennis played with wooden rackets and a rubber ball).
Whatever spot you choose, you'll enjoy cleaner sands and sea than those in Copacabana. Keep in mind that if you go on a Saturday or Sunday, the sands get crowded. Go early to stake out a spot.
The word ipanema is an indigenous word for ‘bad, dangerous waters’, which is not far off given the strong undertow and often oversized waves that crash onto the shore. Be careful, and swim only where locals do."
A magnificent confluence of land and sea, the long, scalloped beach of Copacabana extends for some 4km, with a flurry of activity along its length: over-amped soccer players singing their team's anthem; cariocas (residents of Rio) and tourists lining up for caipirinhas at kiosks; favela kids showing off their soccer skills; and beach vendors shouting out their wares among the tanned beach bodies.
Each group stakes out its stretch of sand. The area between the Copacabana Palace hotel and Rua Fernando Mendes is the gay and transvestite section, known as the Stock or Stock Market – easily recognized by the rainbow flag. Young football and futevôlei (soccer volleyball) players hold court near Rua Santa Clara. Postos 5 and 6 are a mix of favela kids and carioca retirees, while the spot next to Forte de Copacabana is the colônia dos pescadores (fishermen’s colony). As Copacabana Beach curves north you get into the quieter sands of Leme (Av Princesa Isabel forms the demarcation between the two neighborhoods). Here you'll find a mix of older Leme residents as well as kids from the nearby favelas of Babilônia and Chapeu Mangueira.
The beach is lit at night and there are police in the area, but it’s still not wise to walk there after dark – stay near the liveliest beach kiosks when venturing out. Av NS de Copacabana is also sketchy – watch out on weekends, when the shops are closed and there are few locals around.
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Copacabana-stranden
A magnificent confluence of land and sea, the long, scalloped beach of Copacabana extends for some 4km, with a flurry of activity along its length: over-amped soccer players singing their team's anthem; cariocas (residents of Rio) and tourists lining up for caipirinhas at kiosks; favela kids showing off their soccer skills; and beach vendors shouting out their wares among the tanned beach bodies.
Each group stakes out its stretch of sand. The area between the Copacabana Palace hotel and Rua Fernando Mendes is the gay and transvestite section, known as the Stock or Stock Market – easily recognized by the rainbow flag. Young football and futevôlei (soccer volleyball) players hold court near Rua Santa Clara. Postos 5 and 6 are a mix of favela kids and carioca retirees, while the spot next to Forte de Copacabana is the colônia dos pescadores (fishermen’s colony). As Copacabana Beach curves north you get into the quieter sands of Leme (Av Princesa Isabel forms the demarcation between the two neighborhoods). Here you'll find a mix of older Leme residents as well as kids from the nearby favelas of Babilônia and Chapeu Mangueira.
The beach is lit at night and there are police in the area, but it’s still not wise to walk there after dark – stay near the liveliest beach kiosks when venturing out. Av NS de Copacabana is also sketchy – watch out on weekends, when the shops are closed and there are few locals around.
Arts & Culture
Kulturhus Bank of Brazil - CCBB Rio de Janeiro
66 R. Primeiro de MarçoCultural center, expositions
"The Museu da República, located in the Palácio do Catete , has been wonderfully restored. Built between 1858 and 1866 and easily distinguished by the bronze condors on its eaves, the palace was home to the president of Brazil from 1896 until 1954, when President Getúlio Vargas committed suicide here. The museum has a good collection of art and artifacts from the Republican period, and also houses a good lunch restaurant, an art-house cinema and a bookstore."
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Palacio do Catete
153 Rua do Catete"The Museu da República, located in the Palácio do Catete , has been wonderfully restored. Built between 1858 and 1866 and easily distinguished by the bronze condors on its eaves, the palace was home to the president of Brazil from 1896 until 1954, when President Getúlio Vargas committed suicide here. The museum has a good collection of art and artifacts from the Republican period, and also houses a good lunch restaurant, an art-house cinema and a bookstore."
Housed in the colonial arsenal, which dates from 1764, the impressive Museu Histórico Nacional contains historic relics relating to the history of Brazil from its founding to its early days as a republic. Highlights include gilded imperial coaches, the throne of Dom Pedro II, massive oil paintings depicting the horrific war with Paraguay and a full-sized model of a colonial pharmacy.
There’s some attention paid to Brazil’s indigenous population and curious pieces such as the quill that Princess Isabel used to sign the document abolishing slavery in Brazil.
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Nasjonalmuseet for historie
s/n Praça Mal. ÂncoraHoused in the colonial arsenal, which dates from 1764, the impressive Museu Histórico Nacional contains historic relics relating to the history of Brazil from its founding to its early days as a republic. Highlights include gilded imperial coaches, the throne of Dom Pedro II, massive oil paintings depicting the horrific war with Paraguay and a full-sized model of a colonial pharmacy.
There’s some attention paid to Brazil’s indigenous population and curious pieces such as the quill that Princess Isabel used to sign the document abolishing slavery in Brazil.
This beautiful cultural center hosts impressive exhibitions, often showcasing the works of some of Brazil's best photographers and artists. The gardens, complete with artificial lake and flowing river, were designed by Brazilian landscape architect Roberto Burle Marx. There's also a craft shop and a quaint cafe that serves lunch and afternoon tea.
On display there's usually at least one Rio-focused exhibition, which taps into the extensive archive here: the IMS has more than 80,000 photographs, many portraying old streets of Rio as well as the urban development of other Brazilian cities over the last two centuries. Check the website to see what's on when you're town.
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Instituto Moreira Salles - IMS Rio
476 R. Marquês de São VicenteThis beautiful cultural center hosts impressive exhibitions, often showcasing the works of some of Brazil's best photographers and artists. The gardens, complete with artificial lake and flowing river, were designed by Brazilian landscape architect Roberto Burle Marx. There's also a craft shop and a quaint cafe that serves lunch and afternoon tea.
On display there's usually at least one Rio-focused exhibition, which taps into the extensive archive here: the IMS has more than 80,000 photographs, many portraying old streets of Rio as well as the urban development of other Brazilian cities over the last two centuries. Check the website to see what's on when you're town.